I opted for whole salt griddled tiger prawns with lime and garlic and mixed baby leaf (£7), meanwhile, and I was equally impressed. Four huge tiger prawns cooked with their shells on to peel, with a zingy sauce whose flavours added a real pizzazz to the dish. Given the really above average rating we'd both given our starters, the stakes for the main courses were extremely high. My partner had opted for roast rump of lamb with Lyonnnaise potatoes, cherry tomatoes and minted hollandaise (£14.50). He enjoyed his meal but wasn't quite as bowled over as he had been with the starter (which was more a reflection of the quality of that than any lack of in the main course). The same could be said for my choice - baked halibut with mashed potatoes, wilted spinach and spicy curry oil (£14.50). I'd gone for this as someone who loves fish and seafood. It was a good choice and the curry oil, although I'd been slightly sceptical about how well its flavours would go with fish, worked excellently. Both were served with a side portion of vegetables, which were cooked well (as in not too well done) but would have been better plain, and without the hint of tomato sauce on top. We washed all this down with an excellent bottle of Chablis (£19.95). I'm not normally someone who falls into the category of "a sweet person". But the desserts on the menu at West Tower proved a little too much for temptation. I coerced my partner into sharing a portion of rhubarb cheesecake with poppy seed syrup (£5). Again, a triumph. An exceptionally light plain cheesecake base was brought to life by the tartness of the rhubarb topping, and the fabulous-looking syrup. But while the food was excellent, the star of the show at West Tower was undoubtedly the service. All of the staff seemed to have perfected a level of service which is both unobtrusive and attentive. Which brings me back to that limo. Apparently, the deal is that the car belongs to the owner of West Tower but when he is away he makes his driver available to the restaurant's guests, which by anyone's standards is impressive. There's just one thing: can I have one from every restaurant I go to in future please? West Tower Country House Hotel and Restaurant, Aughton Food: Above averagely good
Service: Exceptional from start to finish
Surroundings: A pleasing combination of traditionally elegant and subtly contemporary
Disabled access: Unfortunately, no chance due to 18th century design
Smoking: Only in the lounge
Overall: Highly recommended
Total (include water and two coffees): £72.70 | 
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