 EVEN for a mathematician as bad as me, it’s an easy equation to solve. Chester Races plus Chester city centre equals No Go. "So, let’s go to The Golden Lion at Rossett," said our friend Jane, helpfully. "The food’s great, the atmosphere is unmatched – but you’ll need to book a table." Which we did. The place was full come 7pm and, though there was a good number of people who were regulars, it’s obviously well- known beyond the village, and simply turning up with the hope of finding a table seems a forlorn hope. Rossett is one of the few remaining enclaves of exclusive village life. It’s near to Chester and Wrexham, and a decent drive from Wirral or Liverpool, but it still doesn’t feel like commuter- land. And The Golden Lion is delightful. The place to go for a quiet drink, with beautiful gardens in which to enjoy a summer sunset, or the venue for a relaxed meal. It’s charmingly set out. The bar area is . . . well, a bar area, the typical village local, but there is a hint of better things to come. One wall is decorated with wine bottles – all full – a foretaste of things to come and, just cruising past this work of art, there was a number of things worth remembering. The Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, for instance, something we’ve sampled in the past. Or the Lurton Malbec from Argentina. Which brings me to an admission: I was driving, so could not sample much, though the temptation was severe. Regarding the wine list, whites started at £10.95 and ranged to £29.95, while reds started at a similar price and ranged to £33.95 for an Amarone Classico DOC. Dessert wines were available, while Champagnes started at a reasonable £22.95 a bottle, ranging to £150 for a Louis Rederer Crystal. Wines are also – mercifully! – available by the glass, averaging around £5 for a 250ml offering. But what of the menu? It’s very much pub meets somewhere trying to make its mark as a gourmet paradise. So what does that say? It’s trying to provide something to suit everyone. Starters include chef’s soup of the day (and what’s the betting it’s vegetable? We didn’t ask). There’s galia melon, prawn cocktail or chicken liver paté. Go slightly adventurous and there’s a corned beef hash cake, goat’s cheese tart or baked camembert. There’s a good selection of shellfish and four vegetarian dishes, plus a wide selection of salads. | 
