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La Paz, Banks Road, West Kirkby

Mar 2 2007

By Jane Lloyd, Liverpool Daily Post

 

La Paz, 3, Banks Road, West Kirby, Wirral

YOU'RE no Delia, Jamie or Nigella. Some days you can't even cope with sticking an M&S ready-meal in the microwave without moaning.

But the battle to get a decent Sunday roast with minimal effort and expense doesn't have to get ugly.

Just fake an allergy to the Aga oven, bundle the family into a car and drive down to West Kirby. And voila! Close to the seafront, you'll find La Paz - a family-run restaurant offering two-course dinners for just over a tenner.

My partner and I had stumbled across this bargain bistro a few weeks earlier. With its convivial atmosphere, friendly staff and promises of freshly-sourced ingredients, the newly-opened La Paz seemed to be the perfect haven.

The interior was modern with neutral tones, wooden flooring and leather banquette chairs while the a la carte menu, featuring modern British cuisine with a hint of French, hit the spot without being pretentious.

Starters included home-cured duck with tomato chilli jam (£5.50), potted Southport shrimp (£5.75) and the usual salmon gravadlax (£5.25), followed by roasted sea bass (£13.95), braised shin of black beef (£12.95) and Welsh pork loin (£11.95).

THE choices weren't exactly extensive but they were certainly interesting with a modern take on old favourites like mackerel fillets and lamb.

This time, though, opting for the Sunday menu (which cost £12.95 for three courses and featured many of the a la carte dishes as well as an additional specials board), I couldn't resist the broccoli tartlet with a leek and lemon thyme fettuccine. Mark had the roasted field mushrooms with goats' cheese and herbs.

Both starters were beautifully presented and perfectly executed. Nevertheless, I felt that I had made the better choice due to the contrast of flavours on my plate - creamy and crumbly with the subtle after-kick of the citrus.

But after ordering the spinach and mushroom roulade for mains, I eyed Mark's roast beef with envy.

The substantial portion of Welsh black beef oozed quality and was attacked with carnivorous relish by my other half. His only complaint was the slightly acidic taste of the gravy - which he thought had too much red wine (not that he's averse to the odd bottle of Bordeaux or anything).

 
 

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