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Moules a Go-Go, Watergate Row, Chester
 

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There's a good range of wines on offer and I chose a light, crisp and dry Soave, one of my favourite whites. This burst of citrus fruits was a refreshing follow-on from the sweetness of the Duval.

Too much about drink. While that is a major feature of this establishment, food is much more something to savour. But where to start? We had memories of Singapore crab and fresh sardines from our last visit, but the menu has changed completely.

The choice remains wide and temtping. There's two pages of starters, various meats, fish and steaks. And, of course, mussels. Mussels steamed. Mussels grilled.

The choice of starters is bewilderingly tempting. There's straight hors d'oeuvres, salad or soupe du jour if the rest becomes overwhelming.

But what about risotto with wild mushroom, spinach and mascarpone, or goat's cheese and sun blushed tomato tart served on a salsa of plum tomatoes, red onions and basil.

Scallops, lobster - though, disappointingly limited supplies means it's only available on Friday and Saturday - or moules fishcake, with hot smoked salmon, Gruyere cheese and spring onions.

Oh dear! I went, perhaps predictably, for moules marinieres, which comprised a full half-kilo of fresh Anglesey mussels steamed in white wine, garlic, celery and onion. It always looks a lot and eating them is a time-consuming exercise, but these were quite exceptional.

Big, juicy, succulent molluscs which tasted of the sea. Excellent. And the finger bowls and napkins were all provided without so much as a breath of a request.

Mark's crayfish tails in a Thai green curry with coriander and spinach naan bread was equally enticing. "There's almost enough here for a main course," he said.

"The fish is excellent, cooked just right and the curry does not overpower it. It's a clever combination of tastes. Subtle, but with just enough spice."

 
 

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