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Moules a Go-Go, Watergate Row, Chester
 

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Again, the main courses presented something of a decision crisis. Flame roasted or pan-fried chicken with a choice of sauces - au poivre, peri peri, mushroom or warm Stilton - or steak and frites including surf and turf with that elusive lobster. Mussels steamed in kilo pots with a variety of sauces and served with frites and mayonnaise or, lamb, calves liver, duck, vegetarian?

In the end we both went for the seafood choice which seemed a little more restricted than the last time we were here but was, nevertheless, acceptable. We passed on the swordfish or the smoked haddock.

Mark chose a chowder, which included smoked haddock, mussels, sword fish and crayfish tails poached in a creamy combination of potatoes, sweet-corn, onions and parsley while I went for sea bass pan-fried in lemon pepper and served on a mascarpone, sugar snap pea and wild mushroom risotto.

"It's rich but not overly so," he said. "There's a wonderful range of fish flavours and, again, it's cleverly combined so as no one flavour overpowers the other.

My sea bass was lightly cooked and not swimming in grease as can often happen. It was a generous portion, meaty and flavoursome. The risotto set off the fish perfectly.

And, since we were in a Belgian restaurant, we chose some frites - except these were the sweet potato variety - a refreshing change and subtly different.

To the shame of our waistlines, we did ask for dessert. Wonderful ice creams, waffles, lemon tarte. And chocolate. We shared a Toblerone fondue where the sole concession to healthy eating was the slices of apple and banana to be dipped into chocolate.

Moules a Go-Go, 39-41 Watergate Row, Chester.

Tel and fax: 01244 348818. www.moulesagogo.co.uk

The bill: £66.35

Service: Friendly and efficient even when busy

 
 

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